|
Pahalgam is probably the most popular hill resort in
the Kashmir valley. Since it is rather lower than
Gulmarg the nighttime temperatures do not drop so
low and it has the further advantage of the
beautiful Lidder River running right through the
town.
Pahalgam is situated at the junction of the Aru and
Sheshnag Rivers and surrounded by soaring,
fir-covered mountains with bare, snow-capped peaks
rising behind them. The Aru flows down from the
Kolahoi glacier beyond Lidderwat while the Sheshnag
from glaci ers
along the great Himalayan.
At the confluence of the streams flowing from the
river Lidder and Sheshnag Lake, Pahalgam was once a
humble shepherd's village with breathtaking views.
Now it Kashmir's premier resort, cool even during
the height of summer. A number of hotels and lodges
cater to all preferences and budgets, from luxurious
to unpretentious trekkers' lodges, including JKTDC's
delightfully romantic, fully furnished huts,
partially concealed by giant pine trees.
Pahalgam Walks
There are many short walks available from Pahalgam
and in addition it is an excellent base for longer
treks such as those to the Kolahoi glacier or to the
Amarnath cave. Pahalgam can also be used as a
starting point for treks out of the region. Pahalgam
is particularly famed for its many shepherds and
they're a common sight, driving their flocks of
sheep along the paths all around the town.
PRIME ATTRACTIONS
Around Pahalgam
are many places of interest, and because the resort
is set between fairly hills, it is worth hiring a
pony rather than walking. Pony fares are posted at
prominent locations.
Mamaleshwara
Mamaleshwara is only a km or so downstream from
Pahalgam, and on the opposite side of the Lidder, is
this small Shiva temple with its square, stone tank.
It is thought to date from the reign of king
Jayasima in the 12th century, even earlier.
Baisaran
This meadow, about 5-km from Pahalgam and 150m
higher, provides excellent views over the town and
the Lidder valley. Pine forests and the snowclad
mountains surround the grassy glen. One can hire
ponies for this trek from near the centre of town.
 Tulian
Lake
If one continues 11-km beyond Baisaran one reaches
the Tulian Lake at 3,353m, 1,200m higher up. It is
covered in ice for much of the year and surrounded
by peaks, which rise more than 300m above its
shores. It also can be reached by pony trek.
Aru
The little village of Aru is actually the first
stage from Pahalgam on the trek to Lidderwat and the
Kolahoi glacier. It makes an interesting day walk
from Pahalgam, following the Lidder river for
Pahalgam, following the Lidder river for 11-km
upstream. The main track, which also can be taken by
car, is on the left bank of the river. There is also
a less used, and more difficult path, on the right
bank. At Aru one will often find the Gujars, living
in their log huts with their flocks of sheep and
goats, en route to the higher sheep and goats, en
route to the higher pastures for the summer.
Hajan
Hajan, on the way to Chandanwari is an idyllic spot
for a picnic. Filmgoers will recognize it instantly
as it has been the location of several movie scenes.
Chandanwari & Passage To The Amarnath Yatra
Situated 16-km
from Pahalgam, Chandanwari is the starting point of
the Amarnath Yatra, which takes place every year in
the month of Sawan (Rain). The destination is the
Amarnath Cave, believed to the abode of Lord Shiva.
Although the road from Pahalgam to Chandanwari is on
fairly flat terrain, and can be undertaken by car,
from Chandanwari onwards
the track becomes much steeper, being accessible on
foot or by pony.
Located 11-km from Chandanwari is the mountain lake
of Sheshnag, after which 13-km away is the last
stop, Panchtarni. The Amarnath cave is 6-km away
from there. During the month of 'Sawan', an ice
stalagmite forms a natural Shivling (also spelt as
Shivlinga), which waxes and wanes with the phases of
the moon.
The state government makes extensive arrangements
every year for the successful completion of the
pilgrimage, registering each one of the over one
lakh pilgrims, pony owners and Dandi Walas,
providing camps en route, and ensuring safe,
comfortable and speedy progress of the Yatris.
Even if one's visit to Pahalgam is not during the
period of the Yatra, one can still take a pony ride
up to Sheshnag Lake, returning late evening.
Fishing
Pahalgam is one of Kashmir's popular trout fishing
beats. Kashmir is famous for its trout although they
tend to be rather small. Additionally, fishing
licences are hard to get and rather expensive. A
compulsion is to keep am guide and one is also
permitted to catch six fishes, which is the daily
limit.
EXCURSIONS
On The Road To Pahalgam
The road to Pahalgam starts out towards Jammu but
later branches off to the east at Anantnag. There
are a number of points of interest along this route
including several Mughal gardens - indeed if one
take a bus tour to Pahalgam one'll be thoroughly
saturated with Mughal gardens by the time one
arrives.
Pampore
Only 16-km out of Srinagar on the main highway
south, Pampore is the Centre of Kashmir's saffron
industry. Highly prized for it's flavouring and
colouring properties and rather expensive, saffron
is gathered from flowers, which are harvested in
October.
Avantipur
This popular stop on Pahalgam excursions is noted
for its two ruined Hindu temples. The temples were
both constructed by King Avantivarman, after whom
this ancient centre was named, between 855and 883
AD. The larger of the two is dedicated to Vishnu and
known as the Avantiswami temple. A huge wall
encloses the central shrine with four smaller
shrines around the centre. The other temple
dedicated to Lord Shiva and known as the
Avantishvara, is about a km before the Vishnu
temple, but also close to the main road. It is
situated in a courtyard, enclosed by a massive
stonewall with a gateway on the western side. The
nearby village of Bijbihara has a huge Chinar tree,
claimed to be the largest in Kashmir.
Sangam
A little further down the road, Sangam is
interesting for its strong local industry of cricket
bat manufacturing! One'll see thousands of cricket
bats displayed by the roadside and thousands more
roughly cut lengths of wood being seasoned.
Anantnag
At this point the road fords, one route turning
northeast to Pahalgam and two others southeast to
Achabal and Kokarnag or to Verinag. The Jammu road
leaves this route just before Anantnag at Khanabal.
Anantnag has a number of sulphur springs, esteemed
for their curative properties. The largest spring is
believed to be the home of Ananta, the serpent on
which Lord Vishnu reclines and from which the town
takes its name - 'Abode of Ananta'. Ananta means
'endless' and the water issues from the base of a
small hillock and rushes into another spring in the
middle of which is a natural mineral deposit column
which the locals revere as a lingam. On the 14th day
of a full moon fortnight in September/October, there
is a festival where the people fast and pour rice
and milk into the spring to feed the goldfish.
At one time Anantnag was known as Islamabad but this
name is no longer used, due to the confusion it
would cause with the not too far distant capital of
Pakistan also named Islamabad.
Achabal
The Mughal gardens in this small town were begun by
Nur Jahan and completed by Jahanara, daughter of
Shah Jahan, in 1640. It's one of the most carefully
designed of the Kashmir gardens and was said to be a
favourite retreat of Nur Jahan. Water from a copious
spring flows from the garden in three stone lined
canals, over three terraces and three cascades, with
several fountains in the main canal. There are three
pavilions on the upper terrace, shaded by Chinar
Trees. There's a tourist bungalow, tourist huts and
a camping ground at Achabal.
Kokarnag
One may be suffering garden overload by the time one
gets here, but Kokarnag has yet another one, noted
for its roses. Like Achabal there is a tourist
bungalow, tourist huts and a camping ground for
accommodation.
Daksum
Somewhat above Kokarnag, along the bring river
valley, there's the small hill resort of Daksum at
2,438m. It's on the trekking route to Kishtwar and
has a Rest house, Tourist Bungalow and plenty of
camping spots. From Daksum the trail rises fairly
steeply to the Sinthan Pass at 3,748m. The pass is
open from April to September for trekkers.
Mattan & Martand
Only a few km beyond Anantnag, on the Pahalgam road,
Mattan is an important Hindu pilgrimage point due to
its fish filled springs. A complicated legend
relates that the springs were created when Lord
Shiva broke open an egg, which had been thrown
there, the egg being the reincarnated form of a
forgetful boy, who had been cursed by a wandering
sage and that's only half the story!
On a plateau above Mattan and 3-km to the south,
stands the huge ruined temple of Martand. Built by
Lalitaditya Mukhtapida it is the most impressive
ancient ruin in Kashmir and beautifully sited. The
ruins are 67m by 43m and consist of a portico with a
small-detached shrine on both side and a
quadrangular courtyard. The courtyard was surrounded
by 84 columns - the multiple of the number of days
in the week by the number of signs in the zodiac.
From here to Pahalgam the road follows the course of
the Lidder River, past some good trout fishing
stretches.
Verinag
Close to the foot of the Pir Panjal range, the
spring at Verinag is said to be the source of the
Jhelum river, which flows north through Srinagar,
Jehangir built an octagonal stone basin at the
spring in 1612 and in 1620 his son, Shah Jahan, laid
out a garden around it. The spring is said to be
over 15m deep and is reputed never to dry up or
overflow. There is also a tourist bungalow at
Verinag. |
