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The Meadow Of Flowers
A huge cup shaped meadow, lush and green with slopes
where the silence is broken only by the tinkle of
cowbells, Gulmarg looks like a fantasy set in a film
and not surprisingly have been the venue of several
films.
The valley of Gulmarg, a large meadow abou t
3-sq-kms in area, stands at 2,730 metres, 56-km
south west of Srinagar . The name means 'Meadow Of
Flowers' and in the spring it's just that, a rolling
meadow dotted with countless colourful Bluebells,
Daisies, Forget Me Not's and Buttercups. The valley
itself is about 3-km long and up to a km wide.
Take a Hike!
All around are snow-capped mountains, and on a clear
day one can see all the way to Nanga Parbat is one
direction and Srinagar is another. It's a popular
day trip from Srinagar to Gulmarg, although many
people extend their stay or use it as a base for
trekking. The road from Srinagar rises gently
towards the lower slopes of the range, passing
through rice and maize fields.
From Tangmarg, at the foot of the range, there are
two paths to Gulmarg - a steep footpath or a winding
sealed road. There is also a pony track from Gulmarg
that leads upwards to Khilanmarg, Kongdori and seven
springs.
PRIME ATTRACTIONS
Khilanmarg
This smaller valley is about a 6-km walk from the
Gulmarg bus stop and car park. The meadow, carpeted
with flowers in the spring, is the site for
Gulmarg's winter ski runs and offers a fine view of
the surrounding peaks and over the Kashmir Valley.
It's a 600-metre ascent from Gulmarg to Khilanmarg
and during the early spring, as the snow melts, it
can be a very muddy hour's climb up the hill. The
effort is rewarded, if it's clear, with a sweeping
view of the great Himalayas from Nanga Parbat to the
twin 7,100-metre peaks of Nun and Kun to the
southeast.
Alpather Lake:
Beyond
Khilanmarg, 13-km from Gulmarg at the foot of the
twin 4, 511 metre Apharwat peaks, this lake is
frozen until mid-June and even later in the year one
can see lumps of ice floating in its cold waters.
The walk from Gulmarg follows a well-graded Pony
track over the 3, 810 metre Apharwat ridge,
separating it from Khilanmarg, and then up the
valley to the lake at 3,843 metres. The more
adventurous trekkers can climb straight up the
boulder-strewn slope of the ridge and descend the
other side to the path. For horse riding
aficionados, Alpather Lake makes an exciting day's
excursion, starting early morning and returning late
evening.
The Ningli Nallah:
Flowing from the melting snow and ice on Apharwat
and the Alpather Lake, this pretty mountain stream
is 8-km from Gulmarg. The stream continues down into
the valley below and joins the Jhelum River near
Sopur. This long, grassy valley is a popular picnic
spot and the walking path carries on, crossing the
Ningli (also spelt as Ningle) Nallah by a bridge and
continues on to the Khilenmarg, another grassy
meadow and a good spot for camping. In early summer
one will probably share the campsites with Gujars
moving their herds up to the high meadows.
Ferozpore Nallah
Reached from the Tangmarg road, or from the Outer
Circular Walk, this mountain stream meets the Bahan
River at a popular picnic spot known as 'waters
meet'. The stream is reputed to be particularly good
for trout fishing; it's about five km down the
valley from Gulmarg but quite close to Tangmarg. The
river can be reached by walking 3-km down the path
from the gap near Tangmarg and then heading south
through the forest, down a slope towards the stream.
Near here there is a bridge which leas to the small
waters meet picnic spot on the right bank. Looking
south from Tangmarg the river can be traced up to
its source close to the rugged peak known as
Ferozpore or Shinmahinyu. On the right bank the
stream branches, the left path leading to Tosa
Maidan, while the right bends away towards the
Gogaldara road at a second bridge, about 32-km
upstream, and then leads away to the Ferozpore pass,
Poonch and Kantar Nag.
One can continue on from here to Tosa Maidan, a
three day, 50-km walk to one of Kashmir's most
beautiful Marg's, crossing the Basmai Gali pass at
about 4,000 metres. The track here is very close to
the ceasefire line with Pakistan and on the right
one will pass the Jamainwali Gali, the pass at 4,000
metres is one of the easiest and safest routes into
the Punjab.
Shrine Of Baba Reshi / Ziarat Of Baba Reshi :
This Muslim shrine is on the slopes below Gulmarg
and can be reached from either Gulmarg or Tangmarg.
The Ziarat, or tomb, is of a well-known Muslim saint
who died here in 1480. Before renouncing worldly
ways he was a courtier of the Kashmir King
Zain-ul-Abidin. Every year thousands of devotees
visit this shrine regardless of the faith they
believe in.
Skiing:
In
winter, Gulmarg acquires a new persona - that of the
country's premier skiing resorts. Skiing, to many
who watch it on TV, seems like a very elitist sport,
requiring a high level of training and expensive
equipment. They are surprised, when they visit
Gulmarg for a day's expedition to "see the snow",
that others with the same level of physical fitness
and training are skiing down slopes. Gulmarg is the
ultimate beginner's skiing resort. One doesn't
requite a heavy woolen wardrobe - slacks or a Salwar
Kameez will do fine. In Gulmarg one will also be
able to drift to one of the many Ski shops and hire
skis, sticks and goggles. Just find yourself a ski
instructor and set off down a slope.
Neither does one need to exert oneself climbing up
slopes. The gentlest slope of 200m is linked with a
ski lift, which helps one to go up. When one
graduates to intermediate level - which will happen
after the first few days of practice, there are
other slopes, longer and steeper, which are
connected by chair lift. The longest ski run in
Gulmarg is provided by the Gondola cable car, which
allows a ski run of 2,213m.
GULMARG WALKS
Outer Circular Walk:
A circular road, 11-km in length, runs right round
Gulmarg through pleasant pine forests with excellent
views over the Kashmir valley. Nanga Parbat is
clearly visible 137-km to the north, Haramukh 60-km
to the east while to the south one can see the
Ferozpore and Sunset Peaks and the Apharwat Ridge.
Nanga Parbat, the 'lord of the mountains', is the
fourth highest peak on earth at 8,500 metres. |